I first saw this fellow at Ho'okipa Beach, the world's top wind-surfing location, reading music and softly singing Hawaiian songs to himself. Kelley noticed him, too, and suggested I take his photo because he had such an interesting face. I’m glad I did. Turns out he’s Ilima Kalama, 1962 West Coast Surfing Champion. Born in O'ahu (Pua 'ilima is the official flower of the island), Ilima’s family moved to Southern California when he was a teenager. At the age of 19, he won the surfing championship at Huntington Beach. (Later on he joined the ski patrol in Mammoth Mountain in the Sierra Nevada.) “The ocean gives me energy,” he told me. “The water is medicine.” He's 76 years old, and his only regret is that he can't play the ukulele as well as he used to because of stiffness in his hands. Otherwise, he says he thanks God for the gift of living so close to nature. Read more about Ilima here: http://bodasurf.blogspot.com/2012/10/ilima-kalama.html